A stay at this charming country retreat in the heart of the Lake District will make even the most hardened souls feel that little bit romantic, says Alexandra Henton
Rothay Manor – good for
- Food
- Walking
- Dogs
The Lake District has romance stitched into its reputation: those winsome trees perched atop a rocky outcrop stir even the stultified into creativity. There are the Poets, of course, although I have always found them a little more sapping than spiriting. And then there are the people; hand-holding couples strolling blissfully through fields as I left Windermere station for Ambleside, having dodged the rucksack-wielding holidaymakers on my way to bagging a taxi. It was confirmed – I was in the Romantics country, the perfect spot for a quiet getaway with someone jolly. The weather was having an unprecedented run of September sunshine (it was the hot topic of local conversation). And I had brought the dog.
Rothay Manor, built in 1823 by one of those industrious northern merchants, Mr Crosfield, was a pleasing sight to behold after three train journeys and a taxi. A whitewashed country-house retreat with a delicate wrought-iron balcony adding to its pretty facade, there are 23 bedrooms, eight of which are dog friendly. Next to the main house is the new Pavilion, opened in 2022 by owners Jamie and Jenna Shail. This boasts a series of modern, larger rooms decorated in ‘forest and fell’ hues with enormous beds and lovely bathrooms. This is Danish hygge, English style.
Rothay Manor
My solo romantic sojourn kicked off in one of the ground-floor suites with its own outside space and a gate leading straight into the grounds – perfect for puppy pottering, as was the welcome letter from resident working cocker Wren explaining the doggy dos and don’ts. A dog bed, bowl and towel were all provided along with calming treats. There is also a brilliant dog washroom, Ruff & Tumble coats for drying off in and canine companions are happily welcomed in the drawing room and in the Brathay Room if you’d like their company at dinner or breakfast.
Dog walkers and rambling types
My last proper trip to the Lake District had been with school chums more than 20 years ago where we had three of us bundled together in a tent in the rain, reading Jilly Cooper’s Riders interspersed with fractious games of Monopoly while neglecting to walk anywhere. This time a quick shoe swap and it was out on one of Rothay Manor’s recommended walks with puppy in tow, which was particularly convivial. There were dog walkers and rambling types aplenty on my pootle along the River Rothay – which runs into Lake Windermere – and around the ruins of the Roman fort that once stood guarding this most important of water sources.
The point of all the walking soon becomes apparent once one is ensconced in the drawing room (my silent but attentive four-legged companion at heel) and handed a menu. Food is what Rothay is all about, and there was nothing I didn’t want to eat.
One of the exquisite guest suits at Rothay Manor
Signature menu
One can choose the six-course signature menu, with wine pairing, or from the six starters and six main courses on the à la carte menu. Having plumped for Ulverston lobster followed by Orkney scallops, I was contentedly contemplating what was to come when some of the best home-made bread I’ve ever eaten was ushered on to the table: a small wholemeal loaf with salted butter nestled next to a tomato and Parmesan brioche of yielding yumminess. Luckily, with only the labrador as a companion, I was able to wolf the lot unrestricted by the standard romantic dinner rules that call for demure sharing and sparkling repartee.
Each dish was well considered and beautifully presented by attentive staff who were particularly on point when it came to the cheese trolley where a dozen cheeses, a good number local with some favourites such as Baron Bigod too, were accompanied by pickled grapes, honeycomb, quince jelly and home-made chutney. A quiet post-supper potter with the hound was the perfect way to savour the loveliness of the Lakes and the excellent Lakeland hospitality, which continued at breakfast the following morning.
You don’t need to have a reason to head to the Lake District. If one were required, the Rydal Hound Show is held nearby and those fell packs are all within easy reach. It’s also simple to scoot off the M6 when heading north, and of course there’s all the walking. Other than that, visit in autumn – those mists and mellow fruitfulness will make even the most hardened soul feel that little bit romantic. And Rothay Manor could prove the perfect destination, even if it is just you and the dog.
Don’t miss: The Rothay Rambles. Each room has a useful guide to walks one can take straight from the hotel, ranging from a casual wander to something a little more serious. Ambleside is a short stroll and the bookshop is a particularly worthwhile visit.